Automatolje til 523ia e39

[FCBayern]

Hørt at automatolja til bilen min koster 3000 og så på Gs at de skulle ha 131 kr literen. Ble litt fovirra? Gjør den det?! Bilen trenger sårt et oljeskift ettersom den "evighetsolja" som sitter der nå neppe har vært skifta noen gang og bilen har rulla 238 000..

[The_transporter]

vel..

min gamle e39 523ia har rullet 360 nå snart tror jeg, og den har det ikke blitt byttet olje på enda, så med en klype salt sier jeg at du kan ta det med ro

3000,-? det er vel MED bytte ?

for ingen kan forvente at noen skal betale 3000,- for bare olje?

olja er enkel å bytte, men du bør ha ny pakning, en sånn pumpe med slange på så du slipper å ta av kassa, noe verktøy og muligens en pils for jobben

OBS!! ikke kjør rett etter du har bytta olja, om du velger å ta en pils

Her har du en engelsk manual på jobben:

EASY STEPS IN CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER

1. Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up the car so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.

2. Drain the fluid by loosening the pan. Select the correct Hastings filter replacement based on pan shape and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner.

3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan?s gasket surface isn?t bent or distorted.

4. Remove the old filter. Most transmission filters are held in place with a bolt or two, but some are held by a clip. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.

5. Install a new filter. Use the clips or bolts from the old filter. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place. If the filter has a long intake neck, gently push the neck into place without unseating the O-Ring.

6. Clean the pan thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.

7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place.

8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs. as per manufacturer.

9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as "refill capacity" in the owners manual or AMSOIL Product Selection Guide?, using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.

10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.

11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.

Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle manufacturer or AMSOIL. Have this amount readily available.

Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle.

Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.

Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.

Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids have now been changed.

12. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in Park or Neutral. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to Park or Neutral. Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.

[The_transporter]

ps det står at du skal fylle på mengde olje som står i manualen, men alle steder jeg har lest så har folk fyllt på til det renner ut igjennom hullet du fyller på, sølete men det er ca riktig nivå

du bruker den pumpa jeg beskrev til å fylle på siden du ikke får helt noe mot tyngdekraften

meeen det forstod du sikkert også

[The_transporter]

eventuellt dette her:

You can simplify the process if all you want to do is change the ATF :

Find out which oil cooler pipe is the output.

Disconnect it.

Connect a length of tubing(clear is best - B&Q) to the cooler end of the pipe and place it in a large bucket (10 litres). This is your waste/old ATF.

Connect a length of tubing to the gearbox end and place it into your new ATF source.

Switch on the engine and the pump will force the ATF to 'circulate' so you will draw new ATF into the box and the old ATF will dispense into your recepticle.

When the ATF changes colour to bright red then you have effectively changed all the ATF in the box, assuming you didn't run out at your source end (say from a 5 litre can), and can switch off the engine and check levels.

selv om jeg syns den hørtes litt jalla ut, så kan det jo funke

[DieselVegard]

Jeg fylte på til det rant over på ordre fra mekanikeren...

[hillmar]

Denne linken er veldig god!

http://autopower.se/mekartips/mekartips.asp?dokid=166

Jeg tror du har en 5HP19 kasse, men det må du dobbeltsjekke på merkeskiltet på kassa.

Hadde jeg vært deg så tror jeg at jeg hadde satte det bort til et automatkasseverksted og bedt dem flushe kassa. Da får du bytta all olja (ikke bare 1/3-1/2 som du får bytta ved "vanlig" skift)og du før spylt ut en del møkk. Koster ca. 4000.

[Z1]

Si fra når du har penger så ordner jeg dette for deg.