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martinbmwmkiller

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  1. har ettermontert led lys under dørene, hanske rom og sparkepanel. kobla det til kupelyset i taket
  2. Lakken heter calypsrot rød trur jeg
  3. Tokk noen bilder i dag da hva syns dere ?
  4. jo takk så bra da det er myyye igjen. så følg meg
  5. Jo takk ^^. Kjøpt på streetdesign.no
  6. skal kjøpe vipp bar understell sånn at jeg kan få vippa de fremover
  7. da har man fått montert høyre bøttestol ble nice
  8. da skal man få prøve å koble opp fart, forbruk og hvor mye man har av km igjen av tanken, så får se hvordan det går da
  9. her er noe mer om obc kobling You may think that the OBC conversion thing has been done to death, however most guides cover the 11 to 18 button conversion and as I found out there are some extras you need to know if you want to work up from a 7 button. Before I go on I should say that my Touring doesn't have check control and I didn't want to bother wiring it in so this article doesn’t cover that part of the conversion. Before I started I went to the breakers and cut the whole wiring loom behind the dash out of the scrap car. It took ages but this made things a lot easier when trying to use the right colour wires with the right connectors so I recommend you do the same. Using the Pelican OBC article as my main guide I wired up the new white OBC plug (X1071) and got ready to use all those wonderful new features – but I soon found out that whilst the Range was working, Consumption & Average Speed were not! As the Range was registering this told me I had data from the fuel tank. The other part of the MPG equation is the miles travelled. I unlocked the OBC to get to the “secret codes” and went into Test No 8 which should show real-time speed in Km/h when driving. On my OBC this stayed as zero so I knew that there was no speed data. The Pelican guide suggests that the speed data comes from a white/grey wire going from pin 9 of the white OBC plug (X1071) to pin 10 of the blue dash plug (X17). I re-checked my wiring and did continuity test from pin to pin and all was well. I also have a 96 Convertible with a factory OBC (without check control) so I did lots of comparison test on the wires to the new white OBC plug (X1071). Everything matched but I also found out that the voltage to the white/grey wire went down depending on the throttle position when driving, regardless of road speed - that suggested it wasn’t the speed data connection. I checked & re-checked all my wiring to the white OBC plug (X1071) but after satisfying myself that everything was 100% correct I turned my attention to the black OBC plug (X1070) that is already fitted to the car. It already had wires from pins 12 to 18 but no others. Looking at the Pelican guide it seemed that pins 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 10 & 11 were for the Check Control and chime so I didn’t worry about fitting them. That left pins 6 & 9. Pin 6 is a Blue/Brown/Yellow wire going to pin 26 of the blue dash plug (X17). This was missing from both the dash & the black OBC plug so I wired it up – Nothing! Pin 9 is a Green/Blue wire which according to the Pelican guide and both the pre 97 and 98 Bentley OBC wiring diagrams goes to fuse 23. I decided to check if this was wired to the dash in some way so I had a look the Bentley “1998 Instrument Panel” diagram. I then noticed that this wire is spliced into pin 4 of the blue dash plug (X17). Just like the other wire it was missing from both the dash & the black OBC plug so I wired it up – Success! The Consumption & Speed buttons work and Test No8 shows the actual speed in Km/h. That leads me to believe that this is the speed data. Finally, here is my wiring guide for a 7 to 18 button OBC conversion (without Check Control) using a 96 OBC in a 99 car. I hope it helps. X1070 – Black OBC Plug 1. Vacant 2. Vacant 3. Vacant 4. Vacant 5. Vacant 6. Blue/Brown/Yellow to pin 26 of the blue dash plug (X17) – Not present at either end so I had to fit it to both plugs. I don’t know what this does! 7. Vacant 8. Vacant 9. Green/Blue to pin 4 of the blue dash plug (X17) – Not present at either end so I had to fit it to both plugs. I now believe this carries the speed data. 10. Vacant 11. Vacant 12. Brown/Grey to Outside Temp Sensor – Already present 13. Black/White to pin 2 of the white dash plug (X16) – Already present 14. Violet/White to fuse F45 – Already present 15. Blue/Violet/White to pin 24 of blue dash plug (X17) – Already present 16. Grey/Red to Interior Lights – Already present 17. Brown to earth – Already present but moved to pin 13 on white OBC plug (X1071) 18. Red/Yellow to live – Already present but moved to pin 8 on white OBC plug (X1071) X1071 – White OBC Plug 1. Black/Green to pin 15 of the purple alarm plug (X1659) behind the glove box – Not present at either end so I had to fit it to both plugs. I think you only need to fit this if you want to use the “Code” feature to immobilise your car. 2. Vacant 3. Vacant 4. Brown/Red to indicator stalk – I didn’t have the “OBC cycle” stalk so I removed this wire. 5. White/Violet to pin 12 of the white dash plug (X16) – Already present at the dash plug so I spliced this. It carries the Body Computer Data 6. White/Black to pin 21 of the white dash plug (X16) – Already present at the dash plug so I spliced this. It carries the data from the fuel tank 7. White/Yellow to pin 11 of the white dash plug (X16) – Already present at the dash plug so I spliced this. It carries the Body Computer Data 8. Red/Yellow to live – Moved from pin 18 on black OBC plug (X1070) 9. White/Grey to pin 10 of the blue dash plug (X17) – Not present at either end so I had to fit it to both plugs. Judging from my tests this seems to carry throttle position data, not the speedo data. 10. Vacant 11. Vacant 12. Vacant 13. Brown to earth – Moved from pin 17 on black OBC plug (X1070) 14. Vacant 15. Vacant 16. Vacant 17. Vacant 18. Vacant
  10. Fikk tilpassa m3 radiator dekselet ble nice
  11. da fikk jeg kobla det til Her er et annet koblings skjema som hjalp meg
  12. Her er koblings skjemaet hvis men er ute på vandring ledningene på min svarte stikke lå feil osv
  13. Ja da fikk man 18 knappers obc og her fant jeg retrofit fra analog klokke til obc var noe jeg fant på nettet så får se hvordan det blir [*]Wiring in your Full OBC, to a car with only a clock: You will need:- wire strippers soldering iron insulation tape (heat shrink tubing) bit of wire to run into the engine bay (3m) Temp sensor white plug black plug Right, first of all, you need the black and white plugs that plug into the back of the OBC, you'll find these in any scrapped car with a full obc in it, while you're there nick the temp sensor from the engine bay too. Basically, The white plug on the full OBC, is your power inputs etc, The black plug on the other hand covers all the output funcions. ie, temperaure, coolant level, check control, peak speed, distance, limiter, range, mpg etc etc etc. Since the only function we are intersted in is the temperature, we will only be concerend with two wires from the black plug, where as we will need to connect four on the white plug. WHITE PLUG: Remove your clock and chop off the connector (not all at once though, because your metal strippers will fuse the 12V and earth wires and blow the fuse) - (cut each wires separatley and keep the plug, coz u might want to put the clock back in at a later date. By now, you'll have three wires: a permanent live (red/yellow stripes), an earth (brown) and a sidelight feed (grey/red stripes). You will also require another wire (an ignition live). To get this simply run a wire from the back of your stereo. You dont have to run one from here, just from anywhere that there is an ignition feed. In other words, a wire that only carries 12V when the ignition is switched on. Ignore the sidelight feed for the time being and take the three wires:- 1. the perm live (red/yellow stripes) 2. the ignition live (whatever colour wire you have run from the stereo) 3. the earth (brown) Connect these by soldering to the following wires on the white OBC plug:- A. the (red/yellow hoops not stripes - (might be slioghtly different on early OBC's)) B. (the red/brown wire) C. the (brown wire) 1 to A - This permanent 12V feed allows the memory in the clock to keep the correct time and date, so that each time you turn the car on, the clock still reads the correct time. 2 to B - This ignition feed, provides the power to the backlit display, this makes sure that the display only poweres up when the car's ignition is on!! 3 to C - Earth wires - self explanatory really. BLACK PLUG:- Run two wires into the engine bay, behind your passenger headlamp, connect these to the temp sensor, make sure that you solder and heat shrink over the joint to make it weather proof (doesnt matter which way because they are resistance wires). fit the temp senosr into the little hole in the brake ducts in the front bumper. The other end of these wires, run into the centre console area and link to the OBC:- Connect the afore mentioned wires to the two wires on the black plug (green/black and green/blue) (again, it doesnt matter which way round). Now here's where the sidelight feed comes in:- Connect the sidelight feed (grey/red wire) to the sme colour wire on the black plug - This provides the power to the OBC buttons to light up. Since you only need these buttons to light up at night (or when it's dark) - (a sidelight feed is perfect). Because this means that when it's dark, you put your sidelights on, and when these come on, so do the lights on your OBC buttons - genious!!) Once you have checked all six joints (3 white, 3 black), are soldered corectly and properly insulated, you have finished the hard work!!! Plug the two plugs into the back of your OBC, tidy up the wires and then fit the computer back into place. [*]Det med parkerings sensorene så følgte koblings skjema med at man skal bare koble det til ryggelyset V.B. der man skal montere sensorene ser man når man demonterer bakfangeren på den skumm gråe skummen som ligger oppå den krasjramma. så ser man plaseringen av sensorene. Har orginal bruksanvisningen til kobling av pdc orginalt. Her er det kittet jeg kjøpte på ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/270817622163?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
  14. fant ut hvordan man kobler opp det
  15. har du koblings skjeme til det ??
  16. eeeja. har funnet ut av at du må ha kjørekomputeren med 11 knapper først for i det hele tatt få til 18 knappene
  17. Ja da har man fått tilpasse det ene understellet til bilen så fikk montert kjørestolen, neste er pasasjerstolen sin tur og har montert park sensorer i bakfangeren + fått eksosen til 328 og m3 deksel og i morgen skal jeg hente på posten en obd 18 knapper
  18. det kan jeg gjøre
  19. da har man kjøpt parkering sensorer bak til bmw ser ikke noe når jeg rygger om jeg treffer no så kjøpte et sånn kit da med sensorer og en sånn so piper bilder kommer når jeg finner den hersjens kabelen til tlf
  20. skai skinn er det ville egentlig ha recaro pole position men de koster jo skjorta
  21. takk for posetive tilbakemeldinger i dag har jeg prøvemontert feste til fører stolen, måtte modifisere litt på feste men ble bra på tirsdag skal jeg ta andre sia. også skal jeg sende ryggen på stolene til en salmaker å brodere M stripene i ryggen akuratt som M3 Vader stolene tokk et bilde får å se åssen det ble sende ut
  22. ja da har man fått stolene skal begynne å prøvemontere de i bilen
  23. kjøpte ikke noen nye felger, fikk ikke solgt de så har sendt de til felgfiksing av kanten osv også skal de sendes til pulverlakering i sølvsvart
  24. ja da har jeg bitt oppringt av streetdesign om at stoltene har annkommet og er sendt det blir nice. bilder såklart kommer
  25. da har man legget toppen og andre oljete ting i et plastik badre kar på jobben men kjemikaler sånn at olja løsner opp også skal den i dele vaskeren etter det. bilder kommer
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