E46Johnny

Ja kostnaden blir som Fredrik sier litt av hengig av hvordan du der det. Men min tanke var at hvis du bruker opp hele den tilgjengelige kapitalen på bilen, og bytte av de vanlige slite delene viser seg nødvendig i løpet av kort tid og det at du eventuelt er student så vill er repkosnad på mange tusen sansynlig vis velte gleden av en ellers god bil. Trenger bilen bremse overhaling på alle hjul koster dette fort opp mot 10 000kr hos merkeforhandler. støtdempere og eventuele foringer og hjullager, vannpumpe, ekspansjonstank, termostat, vindusheiser, sentrallåsmodul, service på klima med etterfylling av gass, alt dette er potensielle problemer som ofte kommer mellom 100 og 200 000km, og meste parten må kunne reines som slite deler. Jeg må bytte sentrallås modul nå snart da den har begynt å fjuske, det blir ca 4200kr i deler og ca 2000kr i arbeid og programering. må også ha 4 nye vinter hjul til 5500kr, jeg har i tilleg byttet begge wirene til el vindus heis forran byttet front rute samt noe så greier så det blir fort noen kroner i vedlike hold hvis du treffer uheldig, men etter dette håper jeg på mange problem frie km. Så basert på egne erfaringer så kjøp en bil med god historikk og som har byttet en del slite deler så er du godt berga. En NAF bruktbil test før eventuelt garantien går ut kan være lurt. Ellers er service og rep mye biligere hos Moe auto i Hillevåg en på Bavaria, selv om prisene hans har steget i det siste. til våren blir det alle støtdempere og alle skiver og klosser plus inspection 2.

Hvis du har mulighet til å ta med en voksen person (Foreldre) så blir nokk en prøvetur enklere. Jeg ville ha vurdert å ha litt penger til vedlikehold i bakhånd hvis du kjøper en bil med litt Km på telleren. Når det gjeller sport stolene så slites kantene på rygg og sete pute mye fortere på disse stolen samt at justerbar korsryggstøtte burde vært standard, Årsaken til dette mener jeg er at sportolen holder deg så godt fast at jeg blir sliten i ryggen av å ikke kunne endre mer en bitte litt på sittestillingen, nå er jeg stor og tar mye plass men kona på 165cm og 55kg merker litt til samme problemet. Så hvis jeg kjøper bil med sport stoler igjenn så er det et must at de har justerbar korsryggstøtte. Jeg har selv en 318i turing med M43 motor og 118hk og den er ikke noen rakett kan du si, men til vanlig kjøring går det veldig greit da girutvekslig osv er godt avstemt til motorens karaktrestikk, og kjøre egenskapene er de samme som med de større motorene. Gå for en bil med god service historikk, jo mer av de vanlige slite delene som er byttet jo bedre, jeg er inne i en dyr fase med min nå, (kjørt 191000km) så på et student budsjett er det greit med litt slingrings mon i økonomien.

Med fare for å være av den gamle skolen, vil du ikke gå feil med senkesett fra en av de store BMW tunerne som alpina, hartge, hamman, MK osv, Du må huske på at fjærer, dempere, stabstag ol egentlig er en enhet som må jobbe sammen for å oppnå optimale forutsettninger, det er derfor, en del av systemene koster noen kroner. Og bare sette på noen fjærer og dempere kan i hverste fall gi bilen din dårligere kjøreegenskaper i en kritisk situasjon en det som du kjører på i dag. Husk også på at senker du mye vil du måtte bytte deler i hjul opphenget for å få justert dette slik at du ikke sliter dekk, og justerer du høyden på bilen så blir ikke vinklene Spes (camber) korekte, og du må bruke justerbare camberplater foran og du må bytte til en justerbar lenk arm bak for å få vinklene rette igjen, mange har skjeiv slitt et sett med dekk før de finner ut av dette. Grome deler og nødvendig kompetanse finner du sikkert her: http://www.chassisteknikk.no/ Når det gjeller AE så er det vell nå lykter med AE som passer til E46 men som vanlig koster det noen kroner, mener jeg så et sett slike sist jeg var hos GS. Du har en fin bil så ikke lag den for Harry med skamsenk, får følge med deg litt på DCN også og se hvordan det går.

Er det spesielt lurt med oljeskift før vinteren? hvorfor? Ny olje og nytt oljefilter gir motoren rasker smøring / oljetrykk når det er kaldt ute,

BMW på glatta er bare kos, ca 50/50 vektfordeling og stabilitet gir deg meget gode forutsetninger for en fin tur på glatt føre, jeg har aldri opplevd bilen som uforutsigbar, og jeg har eid flere bile oppgjenom åra bla SAAB 99 som var sagt å være go vinter bil. Har du gode vinter hjul så er fremkomeligheten bedre en de fleste bakhulstrekkere.

Jeg har kjørt piggfritt i mange år nå, og det blir nokk piggfritt i år igjenn når jeg kjøper nye dekk. Blir nokk michelin sin nye X ice i 205/55-16. Når jeg kjører piggfritt er jeg nok mer bevist på å holde avstand og kjøre etter forholdene. Men her i Sandnes / Stavanger området er det ikke så mye vinter da, men underkjølt regn er vi vant med, og det blir glatt det og.

TA en telefon til eks ESS og hørt om de kan ta en ny map på akkurat din motor, det er det eneste som blir helt korrekt og optimalt bla på grunn av produksjons tolleranser på motor og ECU.

På E46 er det ikke uvalig at dørtrekket kan lekke hvis dempematta som er bak dør trekke slipper i liminga, men da er også instegslistene våte så det er lett å se, men bile blir da våt på gulvet, du kan også kjenne om det er fuktig langs nedre kant av dørtreket. På E46 er det også noen gummi tettinger (O ringer) på festeklipsa til dørtrekket som kan falle av hvis du har hatt av dørtrekket. Er litt usikker på om E36 har samme problem, men kan vær vært å sjekke.

Litt FAQ fra Kempower når det gjeller trimming. What is the difference in chip tuning between Kempower and most other ? Your 2 first questions are certainly : Why are other sometimes cheaper ? Why does it take much more time to do car at Kempower than somewhere else, 4 to 8 hours instead of 1 hour ? Our answers : CHECKING THE CAR ORIGINALLY : We test every car on the dyno to be sure that first of all the car is originally OK. If the car is not OK, we didn't start to tune. If You don't go on dyno and you don't do the diagnostics before, you are not able to know if the car is OK. So tuning a car that is not 100% OK, has no sense, but it happens. And if You complain thereafter about the performance of the car, they will always answer that there must be something wrong with the car. So the tuner will not help You, but the dealer will not do it also. So You will be helpless.The car must be first repaired. We also go on dyno to prove our results to the customer. INDIVIDUAL TUNING : We do every car individually on the dyno to be sure that the promised result will be there. We install all the necessary tools to be able to do this correctly. Without indvidually tuning, it is impossible to guarantee the results. The dyno tests and the individualy programming costs more time but are included in the price RESPECT TO AND FROM OFFICIAL DEALERS : We get respect from official car dealers, because we respect also their job in all their aspects.They must be able to do diagnostics, the same way as original and they may not have any problem to work and identify the car. If You charge the dealer with Your problems, it is normally that he will be against tuning. WE ALWAYS START FROM ORIGINAL PROGRAM :For this reason we always read the original program out of the car and start from that program to do the modifications. Like there are a lot of different programs and updates for one type of car, it takes time to translate it. So for example You have update let us say, number "4" on your car, we will write a program based on your originaly program with update "4". This takes time to prepare, but the next time that You go to the offiical workshop, the dealer will find the same update of software as linked to that car and VIN number. Like the newest cars are linked trough internet with the factory, the update versions are always checked. If this didn't correspond with the databank of the factory, YOU LOOSE FACTORY WARRANTY !!! TIME TO DO THE TUNING : the tuning companies who can do it in 1 hour or so, are not able to start from Your original program to do the modification. Even most of the time, they are only a dealer from .... and they can not translate it themself, so if they have to send the software to the main company, it should takes two times more, than here. So in most cases they think to have a good tuned program for a certain car and everybody with such a car gets the same software, without respecting Your original version and update version and without doing it individually and on the dyno. EXPERIENCE AND SELF MADE PROGRAMS : Like we are really the oldest chiptuner in the world since 1971, we have done everything ourself and can make what we want, individual tuning correctly made for the need of your car and dealer. SERVICE AFTER SALES : We only let a tuned car out, when this is 100% OK for us. You get a lifetime support, once you have let done something here. We want that every of our customers stays happy and come back for tuning the next car. Even outside warranty period, we give the service to help the customer if a problem occured even when most of the time our tuning is not the cause. We help the customer, advice him what to do and if necessary bring him in contact with one of our specific relations to be sure that the problem will be solved. QUALITY AND SAFE PRODUCTS This makes the difference when You choose quality and technical safe solutions. Therefore in some cases we can be more expensive. At You to choose. What is engine tuning ? Engine tuning is put more power and torque to an engine. It can be done in different ways. A petrol engine works like an air pump. How more air the engine can pump, how more power and torque the engine delivers. The different ways to achieve that are : 1. more engine capacity (more cc) 2. better breathing on the inlet side (air filter, inlet manifold etc...) 3. other camshaft(s) with more lift and degrees than the original 4. more revs (think at a formula one engine that revs more than 17000 rpm) 5. more pressure on a turbo- or supercharged engine. 6. Cooling the air certainly for turbo- or supercharged engines will put the air density higher and allow more air in the cylinders. When an engine has a better breathing, it is important that the exhaust didn't restrict the power gain that we achieved. So if necessary, we have to replace the exhaust with a better one. Important is that the right air/fuel ratio and the curves of ignition are matching this modifications so that we get good results of power and torque. A diesel engine works in a similar way but here we didn't need to have the right air/fuel ratio to get maximum power. The difference is that until a certain point, more fuel will give more power and torque. Can I be confident in tuning ? For every tuning the most important point is reliability, so do not search the tuner who promises you the biggest power output but take this points in mind : 1. the best guarantied warranty 2. the one who proves you the promised power figures on a calibrated dyno and in DIN or EWG norms (see under What is power and torque ?). 3. A tuner without a dyno can't do a good job. 4. Important is that the tuner has done the job himself, so that he can help you in a good and quick way if necessary. 5. Also important is that the tuner do every car individual, because not two engines are the same. 6. The cheapest or even the most expensive tuning is not necessary the best one. 7. Examine if a tuner has a good reputation by asking his customers if they are satisfied. What is horsepower and torque ? We hear a lot about horsepower and torque, but what is the difference between them. 1. Horsepower is rev dependant and is a calculated number from the measured torque (kW) = T*n* C1 P = power T = Torque n = RPM C1= constant normally the unit is kilowatt (KW), but most of all we talk about Horsepower (hp) 1 hp DIN = 1,36*KW DIN 2. Torque is a measured number of force delivered from an engine at a certain point and is RPM independent.T(Nm) = V * p * C2 T = torque p = pressure in the cylinder V=cylinder volume C2=constant The unit here is Newton meter (Nm) We talk about KW , hp or Nm but in different norms : Bhp is British horsepower (1bhp = 1,013872 hp DIN) SAE is in American norms here we measure the engine without dynamo, air filter etc... DIN is in German norms (most used by manufactures) Correction of the measured power and Torque in the norm with atmospheric pressure of 1013mbar and 20°Celsius The conversion formula isk = 1013 / atmp * ((273 + airt) / 293)^0.5 k = the DIN factor atmp = atmospheric pressure in mbar airt = air temperature in °Celsius EWG is the new European norm Correction of the measured power and torque in the norm with an atmospheric pressure of 1013 mbar but at 25° Celsius The conversion formula isk = 1013 / atmp * ((273 + airt) / 298)^0.5 k = the EWG factor atmp = atmospheric pressure in mbar airt = air temperature in °Celsius Other important conversions to know are : 1kgm = 9,81 Nm 1 kgm = 7,23 Lbft 1 km = 0,6214 miles 1 gallon (American) = 3,78533 litre 1 gallon (English) = 4,54596 litre This norms like DIN and EWG are very important to allow us to compare two measurements independent of the air temperature of air pressure of the day. We can see trough the formula that higher air pressure and a higher air temperature will give us a bigger k factor and a lower air pressure and lower air temperature a smaller one. Important for you, is to know what this means in the practice. The best way I can explain you this, is that an engine with more horsepower will give you better time from 0-100 km/h and an engine with more torque will give you better time from 80-120km/h in the same gear. To go from 0-100 km/h you need to go high in the revs to come at least at the rpm of maximum hp's. For the 80-120km/h test in the same gear, you can't make a choice of rpm, so the power (torque) at the RPM range between 80 and 120 km/h will give you the ability to accelerate from one speed to another speed. So it is possible that an engine with the same hp's or even less but with more torque can let you down, if the car has to accelerate in the same gear. For example a VW TDI can accelerate better from lower RPM than a VW GTI. And what to think about the promised power and torque ? First you have to see the unit of the promised gain. Is the increased power in kW , hp, bph, SAE, DIN or EWG (see above), before you can compare. The Torque maybe in Nm (also DIN or EWG) ,in kgm or in Lbft. * Some tuners give directly the maximum achieved power and torque at a certain Rpm * Some tuners give only the gain of power and torque, this can be done in different ways : * Or the tuner gives the difference at the maximum power- and torque points on a certain RPM * Or the tuner gives you the maximum difference independent of the RPM So for example, it is possible that a tuning give maybe an extra 10 hp at the point of maximum power, but gives you maybe 15 extra hp in the midrange of rpm. So for the same conversion, one tuner speaks about +10hp and another of +15hp. This is a very important point to know before we choose one or another tuner. Which type of dyno can I trust ? First off all, the dyno must be calibrated, to give correct measurements. A real engine dyno is a normally a correct tool, but You can not take always the engine out to let measure Your power and torque. A chassis dyno can also do the job, but very important now adays is that for the newer cars You let run it on a 4WD dyno where the 4 wheels turn always at the same speed even if you have a 2WD FWD or RWD car, like on our Superflow SF880E.The reason is that speed is now also a very important entry for the ECU. If the ECU misses the speed signal it goes often in another part of the program than normal and power measurement is not correct. Even when traction control is disabled and all the fuses are taken out from ABS etc.. , some cars still go in another part of the program and don't give full power. The only way to maybe measure correct on a 2WD dyno or a not 4 wheel driven 4WD dyno, is to go first to the official dealer and let put the dyno mode on the car. If this is not done, the power measurement on this type of dyno's is not correct. Another point is also that chassis dyno's measure wheel power. Only sophisitcated dyno's have a program to measure correctly transmission losses. If this is done correctly, than wheel power + transmission losses = engine power. Some tuners add a fix percent to the wheel power to know the engine power. This is not correct, because it differs from car to car. The only way to know the real transmission losses is to measure them in the same gear as the wheel power measurement. Comparing wheel power from one dyno to another is not possible for the follwing reasons : the transmission losses are influenced by the tyre pressure and how the car is tighten on the dyno. Lower tyre pressure give more losses, a harder tighten car give also more losses. So the only way is to measure exactly the transmission losses each time You want to measure the wheel power again. What is the air/fuel ratio and lambda ? For petrol engines the air/fuel ratio is very important. It is the quantity of air aspirated by the engine against the quantity of fuel aspirated (carburettor) or injected (injection). Lambda is a unit less number that gives you an indication of the air/fuel ratio. A lambda sensor measure the quantity of oxygen in the exhaust. A complete combustion didn't left oxygen at all. In that way the sensor can tell to us or to the engine management system that the engine runs rich or poor an let allow the ECU to make corrections if necessary. The normal lambda sensor has a hysteretic characteristic between 0,9 and 1,1. Now we have also wideband lambda sensors which have a linear characteristic between lambda 0,7 to 1,2. This is the ideal sensor for tuning. * The ideal air/fuel ratio for minimum consumption is nearly 15,4 kg of air against 1 kg of fuel (lambda 1,05) * The ideal air/fuel ratio for maximum power is 13,2 kg of air against 1kg of fuel (lambda 0,9) * The car manufactures admitted the norm of lambda 1 as 14,7 kg air against 1 kg of fuel. This is between minimum economy and maximum power So if we search maximum power we have to see that the lambda is 0,9 at that point for an atmospheric engine. A turbo- or a supercharged engine has to run richer (at lambda 0,82) only for safety reasons, because the higher pressure and the higher exhaust temperature can destroy the engine. By making the mixture richer we cool the temperature in the combustion room and the exhaust to protect the engine. Will I have a bigger consumption after the tuning ? you see that theoretical if we give more fuel (petrol or diesel), we consume more. In the practice you will see that if the tuning job is done good, the average consumption will go down because : * We have a better combustion if the ignition curves are optimized * Because we have more power and torque, we don't need to push the accelerator as deep as before * Some cars are even too rich for maximum power at certain points For the best economy you can use the commercial fuel with the highest octane. So it is better to use 98 octane than 95 octane, even when the car manufacture allows you to drive 95 octane. The economy you can make with the price difference, you will certainly loose in consumption and that with less power output. In most cases of tuning only 98 octane is allowed because the engine is tuned for that octane to obtain maximum power. * A much higher fuel consumption than original, means that you didn't use the right fuel for the modified program, or that the tuned program is not a good one, but one which has to much pré-ignition or and to much fuel. Why did I have to use another air filter than the original ? The advantages of a good sport air filter are : * you don't need to change the filter but only clean it with the right product and oil it in * It filters minimum as much as the original but has a better airflow * The better airflow gives you more power and torque * It works wonderful in combination with other tuning parts where you need more air * How more revs the engine make, how more power gain we have, so for a diesel that didn't rev high the gain is not so important, but the other advantages are primordial. * you have replacement air filters and what we call direct filters. Normally direct filters can give you more power, but only when the aspirated air is cool. So we have to secure that the hot air coming from the fan, radiator or engine is isolated from the filter. Which cam is a good one for my engine ? The most important thing is quality. Buy never a camshaft that is re-profiled from an original one. The manufacture of that type of camshaft has to reduce the valve lift (less power) and have to choose more degrees. The result is bad idling, bad power in low revs and maybe a little gain in high revs. The car is certainly not pleasant to drive and most of the time that type of camshafts shows very quick wearing. The only good type of road tuning camshaft is the one with bigger valve lift and only a little bit more degrees. This results in a good idling and good performance on the whole rpm range. Never allow to loose important power at a certain rpm. The only way to produce such a cam is beginning from blank cams coming from the original car manufacture that has to be completely profiled. This is the way we proceed. Be certain that the camshafts you put, matches the right valve springs, valve retainers, tappets and allow enough freedom between the valves and pistons. Camshafts for hydraulic tappets has not the same profile as the one for mechanical tappets. Hydraulic tappets didn't need to be adjusted, but didn't allow very high revs. If you have mechanical tappets the valve clearance has to be right and regularly controlled. Some new cars has variable timing or and lift systems for the camshafts. This can be variable at a certain rpm and load or even continuous variable. In the next future some car manufactures like BMW are busy to work with a 42 volt battery system that allows the directly computer controlled valve lift and valve timing. This is the ideal solution, because for the moment with the mechanical parts, we always have to make a compromise. How do they modify a cylinder head for more power ? Like told before the basic rule is to give the engine better breathing. Some original cylinder heads can be very restrictive. We have to look at a flow bench, how to ameliorate the airflow in the cylinder head. We have to port the cylinder head , modify the valve seats and match the inlet- and exhaust manifold to the head. A good modification of the valve seats, can sometimes give more gain than bigger valves on a normal valve seat. It is important before you will allow somebody to do that, that the chosen person has a lot of experience in modifying cylinder heads. It is not the first one that have worked a lot for nothing, if he has not the knowledge it's not the first one who destroy the head by grinding to much and passing through. And what about my exhaust system ? With the sport exhaust we can have a power gain if the original one is restrictive. It asks a lot of experience and testing to find the right exhaust for a specific car. A less restrictive exhaust will automatically sound louder and maybe for this reason not always be legal. A special exhaust manifold can give less temperature at the cylinder head together with a better flow and so power gain. If the exhaust is too free we loose backpressure and so also torque but we can gain some peak power, so here we have also to choose the best compromise. Very important for all turbo engines (petrol and diesel) is that a very free and less restrictive exhaust will give you less backpressure and this results in less amount of turbo pressure and a loss of torque. So here we have also to choose the best compromise and examine very well the original exhaust where it is to restrictive. Can I let my cat away ? First of all this is not legal. Older cars can give a good power gain if we take the cat away, but we always have to let the lambda sensor connected to allow the ECU to work well. It is possible that the power gain is 7 à 10 hp on such an old car Newer cars are designed to work with a cat. The cat is designed as a part of the exhaust system. The gain by take this cat away is maybe only 2 hp with a lot of torque loss because the backpressure is too low. So don't !!. If you wants to improve the gain the best is to replace the original ceramic cat by a metallic race cat. The only inconvenient is the price. What is chip tuning ? Some thirty or fourty years ago, if we wanted more power we had to tune an engine by choosing another calibration of our carburettor , and we had to choose the best ignition curve with our distributor to find the best power on the dyno. With chip tuning we do the same. But because the engine is now completely managed by an electronic unit (ECU), we have to modify the program by alternating fuel- and ignition curves to find maximum power. The program is stored in an EPROM called chip. Therefore we call it chip tuning; How can we gain power and torque with chip tuning and how much? By modifying the ignition- and fuel curves in a good way, we can gain power and torque. We can only gain significant power with ignition modifications if we use the best available fuel. So driving with 95 octane can't give us a significant gain. We choose the minimum fuel amount to come to lambda 0,9 (atmospheric) or 0,82 (turbo) to find maximum power. We can eliminate flat spots in the power curves. Very important is that every mechanical modification on an engine (like camshafts) give only power gain if the program is matched to that modification. We have to tell the ECU what he has to do by reprogramming the unit. For atmospheric engines the gain is between 5 and 10%. For turbo engines this can go to 30%, because we can manage also the turbo strategy.* The best way to tune turbo engines is to try to go no higher in turbo pressure than the maximum original pressure, but to go as quick as possible to that point and hold this pressure as long as possible by the way of the program. Why has this not be done by the car manufacture ? The car manufacture has to make a program choice with different points in view : First he has the anti-pollution laws for the different countries. The most easiest way for high production is to give the same severe program for all the cars independent which country they will be delivered. Most of the time the programs are more severe than the law describes, so the manufacture has no problems in the near future. Because he can't program every engine, he has to choose a save program for all his engines where the mechanical tolerances differs from one to another. FOR THIS REASON IF WE WANT TO MAKE POWER GAIN WITH CHIP TUNING WE HAVE TO DO EVERY CAR INDIVIDUAL TO FIND THE LIMITS OF THE TOLERANCES OF THAT CAR. IT IS NORMAL THAT ONE CAR HAS NOT THE SAME TOLERANCE AS ANOTHER ONE AND THEREFORE NEEDS ANOTHER PROGRAM. ALL THE TUNERS OR COMPANIES WHO TRIES TO SELL THE SAME PROGRAM TO ALL THE CARS OF THE SAME TYPE ARE ONLY INTERESTED IN THE COMMERCIAL SIDE OF THE BUSINESS WITH ALL THE POSSIBLE TECHNICAL DANGERS THAT THIS CAN GIVE. A BAD PROGRAM CAN DESTROY your ENGINE. Which are the dangers of bad chip tuning ? Imported programs from other countries can be dangerous if for example the fuel quality is better in that country, than in the one we are driving the car. The program has to be made special for the used fuel quality. For petrol engines : To much pré-ignition gives a higher fuel consumption and can even destroy your engine by detonation. Bad air/fuel ratio's : To rich mixtures can give you a big fuel consumption and even cylinder washing which take away the oil film and destroy the engine. To poor mixtures gives to high combustion temperatures, favourites detonation and can also destroy your engine. For diesel engines : To rich can give you a big fuel consumption and even cylinder washing which take away the oil film and destroy the engine. It will destroy your cat and your ré-combustion system. For all turbo- or supercharger engines : To high turbo pressures may also destroy your engine in all possible ways, cylinderhead gasket, pistons etc... For turbo diesels, the most gain is achieved by enriching in a good way the injection, which gives you automatically a turbo pressure amount of nearly 0,1 bar, which is save with the fuel amount. It is not necessary to program higher boost pressures. Maybe only the turbo strategy to achieve quicker the maximum original boost. you need very much higher turbo pressures to obtain a power gain, which is not reasonable. Please take in mind that a diesel engine has to do a lot of kilometres. THE KEMPOWER PASSWORD IS RELIABILITY AND OUR CONVERSIONS ALLOWS you TO MAKE MINIMUM THE SAME MILEAGE AS ORIGINAL. WE DIDN'T SELL OTHER ROAD CONVERSIONS. ALL OUR KITS ARE HOMEMADE AND LONG TESTED. THIS IS THE REASON WHY WE ARE NOT ALWAYS THE FIRST ONE TO SELL A KIT FOR A BRAND NEW CAR. TWO DYNO'S A ROLLING ROAD, A BIG ENGINE DYNO AND A LOT OF INSTRUMENTS ALLOW US TO DEVELOP GOOD AND SAVE ENGINE KITS. Is chip tuning better than a additional black box or not ? The two are good if they are well made. Above you can read the difference between a good and a bad chip tuning. This is the same for the so called black box, which is an additional box, that modifies the data in an external way. Everything depends on the way this additional box works, and which data it takes as input data and in which way it delivers output signals. Some black boxes receive not enough input data to work well, and delivers therefore not the right output signals. For example some diesel boxes are directly placed between the wire loom and the diesel pump. So these boxes only receives an 12V alimentation and increase the fuel injection in a constant way. If the engine is idling or on full power the amount of fuel is the same. you didn't have to be a technician to understand that if the quantity of extra injected fuel is chosen for maximum power, this same amount is to high at part throttle or low revs. So here the maximum power can be achieved like with other systems, but you have flat spots and hesitations on part throttle and low revs and a lot of black smoke. If the same black box is made in the way, that it can modify the extra injected fuel (output) in function of the throttle position and the turbo pressure (input signals), and if it is well programmed, it can be as good as chip tuning. This is the way our diesel black boxes works. you can understand that the technical way to achieve this possibilities is more sophisticated and therefore more expensive than the first systems. The advantage of this system is that the customer can leave his ECU original, which the dealer or also the main distributor prefers. We make black boxes and chip tuning. On some petrol engines, it is not possible to re-chip the original ECU. In some ECU's the program is stored directly in the microprocessor, and modifying the ECU to allow to reprogram the unit would be to expensive. For this cars we have also a universal additional box that can alternate the ignition- and the fuel characteristics. The program in that extra unit works like a normal ECU, with different fuel- and ignition maps. A positive number in the map will increase the original curve at that point and a negative number will decrease it. So we can always program that engine in the best possible way. We have full throttle ignition- and fuel maps, part load ignition- and fuel maps, and also an idling map. Even this works as good as classic chip tuning. We must not forget that there will come a time that for one reason or another, it will be impossible to re-chip the original ECU. Therefore we use already this system on some cars. Can I put a turbo or a compressor on my car ? you can't put a turbo or compressor on an atmospheric engine without the necessary a save modifications : For detonation reasons, the compression ratio can't be left the same, but must be decreased The pistons has to be cooled with an oil cooling spray The piston clearance has to be bigger and the pistons has to be preferably forged and have a turbo design. The cylinderhead gasket must resist on the pressure , if not it has to be replaced by a stronger one Also there may be a need for stronger cylinder head bolts Does your conrods, crankshaft and bearings support the higher pressure on the pistons ? Because of the modification in the lubrification system (piston oil spray, lubrification of the charger) the delivery capacity an oil pressure has to be revised. The electronics has to be modificated in a serious way to match in security this modifications. Most stock ECU's have no input like boost pressure, so they will not be able to correct the fuel and ignition in a save way against the boost. If not all this modifications has be done, there is no possibility to put a pressure higher than 0.2 à 0.3 bar, which gives you certainly no much power gain than a good atmospheric conversion, which is much saver. We are able to do this conversions, but we have to convert the engine completely as we want to give reliability as stock and will there fore be more expensive than some other tuners who didn't open the engine at all. This is a technical suicide. And what about the airbox ? An airbox will give you certainly a better breathing by accumulate extra air if we reopen the throttle. So we will certainly have a considerable power- and torque gain. Unfortionally not every ECU can manage this modification, because we have to let the airflow-/air-mass-sensor away to obtain a gain. Most of the ECU's use this sensors for their basic calculations. If we want absolutely to use such an original ECU, we need to use an extra electronic box which is called Alpha-n box. This box converts the throttle position signals in an a way the ECU admit as being an air mass signal or we have to use another and good ECU to make this conversion. In any case this engine has to be mapped on an engine dyno. For road applications we have to take the emission rules in mind. Some tuners do this conversion without using one of this two methods. In this case the ECU will run in security, and can't allow good power results. Can I have a power gain by other sparkplugs ? Yes there are sparkplugs that gives more power than other ones. Racing plugs will give you some 5hp more, but this plugs have cold start problems. Some special sparkplugs gives a better combustion, but you may never put this plugs, if there is already a chip tuning on your car, because this can create detonation, if the program has been made on maximum. If you want to put this sparkplugs, you have to let re-chip your car to this specific plugs. Power loss and smoke on my tuned diesel? My car was first of all OK after the tuning but now it has less power and more smoke. What can that be ? Has the software changed ? No the software didn't changed, but You can have different problems that can be the cause : Is Your air filter really clean. Some dealers wait more than 50.000 km to change it. control or let control Your combustion recirculation system ! This electronic controlled valve connects the exhaust with the intake in certain conditions for better emissions, but it can stay open the whole time. So take the electronic connector off from the electrical valve and take the vacuum hose off the mechanical valve and put a stop in the vacuum hose. Otherwise put a plate between the exhaust pipe that connect the exhaust gas with the intake manifold. If these valve stays open, You have a lot of black smoke and also power loss. This is a frequent cause. Another frequent cause is a faulty air mass meter. The problem is that it didn't give a fault on normal diagnostic systems, because this systems can only control the wires and if the sensor signal changes, but it can change and give a wrong signal to the ECU. Most of the time when this is the fault, the power is OK until 2.500 to 2.700 RPM, but thereafter there is a dip in the power curve and the car didn't have his tuned power anymore. A dyno test can give You the answer. Pay attention this different causes are not especially for tuned cars, but are also for complete original cars. The only problem is that some dealers say directly that the power loss is caused by the tuning and didn't want to help You further And what about my diesel particle filter DPF / FAP ? The diesel particle filter is called DPF (diesel particle filter) or on french FAP (filtre à particule). This DPF eleminates diesel particles by filter them before going out of the exhaust. You can understand if there is no diesel smoke at all coming out of the exhaust, that at a certain time the filter will be full, blocking exhaust gasses with powerlosses. To clean the filter there is a called regeneration system. We speek about : naturally regeneration : this is done by the car self at certain conditions this condition are 650°C of exhaust gas and constant speed during +/- 20km forced regeneration : this is done at the dealer sending a special program from diagnostic unit to do the regeneration the diagnostic system controls how much % that the DPF is cleaned during the proces. if the system sees that the % will be stay to high it will advise to replace the filter Now as You can see the problem for naturally regeneration is the 650*C of exhaust gas. Like with the current traffic and restrictions, we may only drive 30/50/70/90/120 km/h or whatever and like mostly we will drive at low rpm in a higher gear, we will rarely reach the 650°C. Therefore we advice : to drive a traject of minimum 20 km , let us say every 2 weeks in a lower gear reving above 3000 rpm and at a constant speed. This should start the regeneration. to choose always a good quality of diesel, which will give already less particles on the start. to use regulary a good cleaning product ike "FORTE diesel conditioner ", that helps to reach the 650*C necessary for regeneration Stopping the engine during the regeneration process can be worse. On some cars there is control lamp, to show You if the regeneration is busy or not, buy on most cars You don't have that. Newer versions have or will have an additional product that helps to start the chemical regeneration sooner at 250*C, but for the moment most didn't have it. The question is also will tuning affect the life time of my DPF? Well if the tuning is well done in function for a version with DPF, it will not or nearly not affect. Let us say if it is a good tuning program it may short the life time only by maximum 10%. Why is it dangerous to buy parts on the web ? Internet is a fantastic communication system. Like all systems they have dangers. In the case of tuning it is also like this. Some potential customers do web shopping and everything seems very good. They assemble tuning parts from different companies, where the pictures are beautyfull and the promisses high. The problem is that first of all, this items must match together on a car and somebody has to fit it and tune this all together. You can not go with Your steak to the restaurant. So think very carefull before You buy. The best is to buy and let fit it, by the same company or a official dealer of the same company. We do not install parts that we didn't sell and we can not give any warranty on it. If there are troubles the customer is always the looser, because the company who sold the parts will say that it is the fault of the guy who fit it and the one who fit it, will tell You that the company has sold wrong or bad parts. Will KEMPOWER solve my problems ? We tune only engines that are delivered to us in stock trim. If there are some foreign tuning parts on it, we didn't tune it, we cann't give guarantee at all and because this are not, the by us choosen selected and tested parts, there is also no guarantee on succes. On this way, we avoid possible discussions and disapointments. Kempower is a complete tuner. This means for the mechanics and the electronics. Some want or can only do the mechanical modifications and hope that Kempower will solve their problems by doing the electronics and adjust the mechanics, or some have let tune their car by another tuner, without succes and hope that we will solve their problems. This is NOT the way we work. We do everything from scratch or nothing !!! What when my dealer reflashed my ECU with an update to original again ? It can happen that Your official workshop dealer has to reflash Your tuned ECU with an update, or even that they have done it accidently. The car will be back to original. No problem, the customer comes back and if his tuning has been done within the last 3 months we retune his car starting from the latest original program for free. If the tuning is older than 3 months we ask 75,00 Euro to do it. So he can enjoy again his tuned car with the latest factory update. Håper dette oppklarer litt siden det er generelle regler som gjeller all tuning.

Mener at KN hadde et vått filter som passet i orginal luftfilter boks. Men jeg ble frarådet å bruke dette pga luftmassemåleren kunne bli skada, denne er/var dyr (ca 4000kr) så jeg kjører oginalt BMW filter. Men manger her bruker vell KN filter uten problemer i det hele tatt. Nå det gjeller chipen som det var linket til var den til IS motoren som er en 16 ventil motor med litt arv fra E30 M3 motoren, så den har et bedre potensiale en E46 316-318i som er 8 ventilers motorer som mister mye av futten ved 4500 omdreininger. MK motorsport. http://www.mk-motorsport.de/html_en/e46_3er_motor.htm Har et kit som gir 12 hk som du finner ved å lete i linken. De hadde flere trinn i programet for 318i motoren før, men det endte opp med ombygd motor til slutt. Tror det var 3 eller 4 trinn i effekt opgraderingene der i fra. - http://www.kempower.be/ Har også hatt diverse tuning til BMW.

Det er viktig å huske på at en motor er et system av komponenter som er tilpasset hverandre. Og bare tilfeldig bolte på race spec komponenter vil ikke gjøre store susen på en motor som er laget for normalt gate bruk. Og matche komponenter til ønsket effekt nivå vil være den beste løsningen. Eksepelvis finnes det kammaksler som vil gi deg 20hk, men motoren vil da ikke trives med orinal eksos, luftfilter og ikkeminst motorstyrings software. Ved å eksempel vis hente noe av efektøkningen fordelt på flere komponenter vil være en mye bedre løsning, eks en kammaksel som er bare litt hvassere en orginal, oppgradert luftfilter, oppgradert eksos, og kansje en remap av motoren så vi du hente samme efekten men motoren vil være mye mer kjørbar i eks by og kø trafikk.

Dette er kansje en av de største link sidene om BMW, tror du kan finne mye her. - http://www.bmwlinks.com/

På min bil røk termostathus, vannpumpe, ekspansjonstank, og varmeaparat slanger med relativt kort mellomrom. Oringer på diverse hurtigkobliner kan og være et problem, samt drenerings pluggene for av tapping av kjølevæske, jeg har bytta noen av dem og, men nå ser det ut til å være tett. Men var drit lei hele bilen en stund, Kjørte rundt med flere liter kjølevæske i bilen lenge. Men nå ser det bra ut og bilen og jeg er blitt venner igjenn.

Her var det ikke snakk om at bilen skulle gå så mye bedre, men hvordan han kunne få 10-15hk for lite penger. Merker ikke så mye forskjell på vanlig landeveis kjøring. men hvis du kommer opp i fart, eks motorvei spes i danske hastigheter så er det bedre drag med 98 - 99 oktan. Det merka jeg godt for et par år siden etter en tur til Fyn hvor jeg måtte fylle 95oktan før jeg kjørte hjem, fik da redusert futt ved forbikjøringer. Dette ble bedre i fjord da shell fikk 99 oktan til bake i danmark etter den hadde vært borte i flere år. I instruksjons boka står det spesielt bemerket at 316i og 318i får økt ytelse og redusert drivstoff forbruk ved bruk av 98-99 oktan bensin Motor efekten på 316i og 318i (8 ventil utgaven) er oppgit med 95 oktan bensin. Derfor økt ytelse ved 98 - 99 oktan For 6 sylindrede motorer er efekten oppgitt ved bruk av 98 oktan bensin, så ha du en nyere BMW og bruker 95 oktan bensin har du ikke den effekten som fabrikken oppgir.

Bruk 98-99 oktan bensin så får du 126-128hk i stede for 118. komplett supersprint eksos med grenrør drar dette opp til ca133-135hk Sportsluftfilter bråker som regel mer en det hjelper, men KN har/hadde et som passer i det orginale luftfilterhuset, som jeg liker bedre da motoren da suger kald luft som har høyere oksygentettet en varm luft som et motorroms montert filter som oftest suger. Etter dette er det race ventiler, optimaliserte ventilseter, sintere kamaksel, portet topp, annet innsug, osv som må til. 318i er desverre ingen rakett.

Hvis du trenger å polere opp felgene ordentlig etter vask kan du bruke en Mothers PowerCone Polishing Tool. Link: http://www.blankbil.no/ds_product_info. ... cts_id=171 Og/eller: Mothers Powerball Mini. Link: http://www.blankbil.no/ds_product_info. ... cts_id=172 Disse brukes på drill slik at du sparer fingene. Pricbort er god på asfalt flekker.

Behold emblemet, blir for anonymt uten. Bakrute pusseren og åpne mekanismen til ruta gjør at det ikke blir cleen uansett. Men det er min mening. Cocquyt brugge eller hva der stå på luka er alt fra en BMW forhandler til møbel butikk hvis du googler det.

Ville ikke prøvd med et 10 engang. orginal er vell omtrent et 42 litt usikker på E36. Så jeg tror du sliter uten ombygging, samt at sporvidde endringen er alt for stor, maks er normalt 15mm som blir 7,5mm på hver side. Så et 10 blir way off.

Prøv her. - http://www.ca-at.co.uk/products-Y2F0X2l ... 9NjY=.html

Noen dekk kan få flat spots når bilen har stått en stund, blir runde når du har kjørt litt.

Har du sjekka lenkarmene til stabilisatorstaget bak, har opplevd at transmisjon av lyd gjør at du blir lurt til å lete feil plass. Ytre kule på bærearmene foran er ofte en synder som kan være vanskelig å finne nå den bare er litt slitt, siden den sitter i gummiforing og flekser litt pga dette. Jekk opp bilen slik at hjulet henger fritt hold endene på hjule med grep ca kl 6 og 12 og rikk i hjulet uten å bruke for mye krefter, du vil da kjenne om kulen er slitt siden du ikke belaster gummien som kula sitter i. For test av styrekule har du fortsatt hjulet oppjekka og holder grep ca kl 3 og 9 og rikk frem og til bake du kan da kjenne eller se vilken kule som er slitt. Det kan være greit at det andre hjulet står på bakken siden det da blir letter å bruke litt kraft.

Kan vise et par bildre fra korigering av matt bakfanger med 3M produkter Før korrigering. Etter korrigering Dette er før polish og voks. Jobben ble avslutta med Meguiars polish og voks, men her kunne jeg ha brukt hva som helst. Skall maskin polere hele bilen i ferien og den vil bli korigert med 3M og sansynligvis voksa med swissvax. Så ikke alle her inne må bruke Meguiars.

Jeg har greie arfaringer med interflon fettet, men det er ikke så lett å få det til å trekke ned i wire strømper ol, vi bruker det bla på teleskop skinner.

En venninde av kona klarte dette på en dag.

I tillegg er det lurt å ta på plast og gummifornyer før du setter igang med lakk jobben, det gjør at poleringsrester ikke setter seg så godt fast og er derfor lett å fjerne. Maskerer du i tillegg er du rimelig sikker på å ungå polerings rester på plast/gummi.