trimming 318i e46

[Olelink]

Husk når du vurderer forskjellige luftfiltertyper opp mot hverandre at du gambler med motorens levetid.

De orginale filtrene er nok litt restriktive mtp flow da de er tykke og store som gir mye bremse effekt på lufta, men de er nok blandt dem som filtrerer lufta aller best. De (med luftfilterboksen) dreper derimot innsugslyden noe som vel kanskje er designet sånn da allmenheten (her og fru hansen) nok ikke vil ha en brølende motor i det daglige.

Ett "tørt" (ikke oljet) konfilter til en 500 lapp filtrerer ikke lufta på laaangt nær så bra som de orginale filtrene. Ett konfilter gir derimot fin lyd da du ikk lengre har luftfilterboksen som demper innsugslyden. Men det vil trekke inn varmere luft som igjen gir dåligere effekt om du ikke lager deg eller kjøper ett ferdig varmeskjold. Du kan imidlertid få en litt kvikkere respons da motoren får ett bedre reservoar av luft.

Det største minuset med "tørre" konfilter er at de filtrerer lufta dårligere enn orginalfiltret, har av egen erfaring sett at allerede etter ett par måneders tid (og dette ved flere forskjellige merker deriblandt ett relativt dyrt ett) kan det legge seg ett ørlite tynt lag med fint støv i innsugsbelgen, noe som tyder på at motoren også har fått i seg noe av dette. Dette vil jo over tid gi en slags svak sandblåse effekt i forbrenningskammeret.

Ett innsatsfilter gir svært liten effektøkning da du fortsatt bruker den orginale luftfilterboksen hvor lufta har en like lang vei å gå som før og du har ikke noe større reservoar av luft enn før. Men du skjermer lufta bedre mot varme enn ett konfilter, spesielt ett uten varmeskjold og innsatsfiltre filtrerer vanligvis litt bedre enn "tørre" konfiltre da de jobber med en litt renere luft. De kan gi litt bedre respons og effekt av bedre flow da de ofte er betydelig slankere enn orginale med mindre bremse effekt på lufta. Men dette kan gå på bekostning av filtrerings egenskapene.

"Våte" konfiltre/innsatsfiltre er vel de som filtrerer best av de uorginale typene filter (kanskje ett bra ett filtrerer bedre enn det orginale også). Med vått mener jeg at det er behandlet med filterolje som klistrer til seg de minste partiklene i lufta (de som tørre ofte har problem med og filtrere bort). Ett "vått" konfilter kombinert med varmeskjold vil vel være den løsningen som best kombinerer ønsket om bedre effekt/respons, bedre lyd men som samtidig opprettholder en god filtrering av lufta. Husk vel og merke att disse filtrene trenger vedlikehold for å opprettholde sine egenskaper, de kan også (om oljen ikke brukes korrekt) i værste fall ødelegge luftmengde måleren da den ikke tåler å få filterolje på seg.

Vet meningen med denne tråden var å finne billige typer/måter å trimme bilen på, men tenkte det kunne være greit å ramse opp hvilke andre påvirkinger det kan gi.

Varmeskjoldet kan du lage selv, men jeg ville ha kostet på meg ett godt filter om jeg var deg.

Når jeg vurderer å kjøpe bruktbil snur jeg i døra om jeg ser ett "tørt" konfilter fra biltema i motorommet.

[Azeton]

http://www.trimchip.com/test/asp/Tekniske_data.asp?modell=BMW+318is+E36

trimchip mener at man får 14hk ekstra på E36.. Kontakt han. kanskje det gjelder E46 også? Har mine tvil på at det virkelig stemmer.

[E46Johnny]

Mener at KN hadde et vått filter som passet i orginal luftfilter boks.

Men jeg ble frarådet å bruke dette pga luftmassemåleren kunne bli skada, denne er/var dyr (ca 4000kr) så jeg kjører oginalt BMW filter.

Men manger her bruker vell KN filter uten problemer i det hele tatt.

Nå det gjeller chipen som det var linket til var den til IS motoren som er en 16 ventil motor med litt arv fra E30 M3 motoren, så den har et bedre potensiale en E46 316-318i som er 8 ventilers motorer som mister mye av futten ved 4500 omdreininger.

MK motorsport. http://www.mk-motorsport.de/html_en/e46_3er_motor.htm

Har et kit som gir 12 hk som du finner ved å lete i linken.

De hadde flere trinn i programet for 318i motoren før, men det endte opp med ombygd motor til slutt.

Tror det var 3 eller 4 trinn i effekt opgraderingene der i fra.

- http://www.kempower.be/

Har også hatt diverse tuning til BMW.

[E46Johnny]

Litt FAQ fra Kempower når det gjeller trimming.

What is the difference in chip tuning between Kempower and most other ?

Your 2 first questions are certainly :

Why are other sometimes cheaper ?

Why does it take much more time to do car at Kempower than somewhere else, 4 to 8 hours instead of 1 hour ?

Our answers :

CHECKING THE CAR ORIGINALLY : We test every car on the dyno to be sure that first of all the car is originally OK. If the car is not OK, we didn't start to tune. If You don't go on dyno and you don't do the diagnostics before, you are not able to know if the car is OK. So tuning a car that is not 100% OK, has no sense, but it happens. And if You complain thereafter about the performance of the car, they will always answer that there must be something wrong with the car. So the tuner will not help You, but the dealer will not do it also. So You will be helpless.The car must be first repaired. We also go on dyno to prove our results to the customer.

INDIVIDUAL TUNING : We do every car individually on the dyno to be sure that the promised result will be there. We install all the necessary tools to be able to do this correctly. Without indvidually tuning, it is impossible to guarantee the results. The dyno tests and the individualy programming costs more time but are included in the price

RESPECT TO AND FROM OFFICIAL DEALERS : We get respect from official car dealers, because we respect also their job in all their aspects.They must be able to do diagnostics, the same way as original and they may not have any problem to work and identify the car. If You charge the dealer with Your problems, it is normally that he will be against tuning.

WE ALWAYS START FROM ORIGINAL PROGRAM :For this reason we always read the original program out of the car and start from that program to do the modifications. Like there are a lot of different programs and updates for one type of car, it takes time to translate it. So for example You have update let us say, number "4" on your car, we will write a program based on your originaly program with update "4". This takes time to prepare, but the next time that You go to the offiical workshop, the dealer will find the same update of software as linked to that car and VIN number. Like the newest cars are linked trough internet with the factory, the update versions are always checked. If this didn't correspond with the databank of the factory, YOU LOOSE FACTORY WARRANTY !!!

TIME TO DO THE TUNING : the tuning companies who can do it in 1 hour or so, are not able to start from Your original program to do the modification. Even most of the time, they are only a dealer from .... and they can not translate it themself, so if they have to send the software to the main company, it should takes two times more, than here. So in most cases they think to have a good tuned program for a certain car and everybody with such a car gets the same software, without respecting Your original version and update version and without doing it individually and on the dyno.

EXPERIENCE AND SELF MADE PROGRAMS : Like we are really the oldest chiptuner in the world since 1971, we have done everything ourself and can make what we want, individual tuning correctly made for the need of your car and dealer.

SERVICE AFTER SALES : We only let a tuned car out, when this is 100% OK for us. You get a lifetime support, once you have let done something here. We want that every of our customers stays happy and come back for tuning the next car. Even outside warranty period, we give the service to help the customer if a problem occured even when most of the time our tuning is not the cause. We help the customer, advice him what to do and if necessary bring him in contact with one of our specific relations to be sure that the problem will be solved.

QUALITY AND SAFE PRODUCTS This makes the difference when You choose quality and technical safe solutions. Therefore in some cases we can be more expensive. At You to choose.

What is engine tuning ?

Engine tuning is put more power and torque to an engine. It can be done in different ways.

A petrol engine works like an air pump. How more air the engine can pump, how more power and torque the engine delivers. The different ways to achieve that are :

1. more engine capacity (more cc)

2. better breathing on the inlet side (air filter, inlet manifold etc...)

3. other camshaft(s) with more lift and degrees than the original

4. more revs (think at a formula one engine that revs more than 17000 rpm)

5. more pressure on a turbo- or supercharged engine.

6. Cooling the air certainly for turbo- or supercharged engines will put the air density higher and allow more air in the cylinders.

When an engine has a better breathing, it is important that the exhaust didn't restrict the power gain that we achieved. So if necessary, we have to replace the exhaust with a better one.

Important is that the right air/fuel ratio and the curves of ignition are matching this modifications so that we get good results of power and torque.

A diesel engine works in a similar way but here we didn't need to have the right air/fuel ratio to get maximum power. The difference is that until a certain point, more fuel will give more power and torque.

Can I be confident in tuning ?

For every tuning the most important point is reliability, so do not search the tuner who promises you the biggest power output but take this points in mind :

1. the best guarantied warranty

2. the one who proves you the promised power figures on a calibrated dyno and in DIN or EWG norms (see under What is power and torque ?).

3. A tuner without a dyno can't do a good job.

4. Important is that the tuner has done the job himself, so that he can help you in a good and quick way if necessary.

5. Also important is that the tuner do every car individual, because not two engines are the same.

6. The cheapest or even the most expensive tuning is not necessary the best one.

7. Examine if a tuner has a good reputation by asking his customers if they are satisfied.

What is horsepower and torque ?

We hear a lot about horsepower and torque, but what is the difference between them.

1. Horsepower is rev dependant and is a calculated number from the measured torque (kW) = T*n* C1 P = power

T = Torque

n = RPM

C1= constant

normally the unit is kilowatt (KW), but most of all we talk about Horsepower (hp)

1 hp DIN = 1,36*KW DIN

2. Torque is a measured number of force delivered from an engine at a certain point and is RPM independent.T(Nm) = V * p * C2 T = torque

p = pressure in the cylinder

V=cylinder volume

C2=constant

The unit here is Newton meter (Nm)

We talk about KW , hp or Nm but in different norms :

Bhp is British horsepower (1bhp = 1,013872 hp DIN)

SAE is in American norms

here we measure the engine without dynamo, air filter etc...

DIN is in German norms (most used by manufactures)

Correction of the measured power and Torque in the norm with atmospheric pressure of 1013mbar and 20°Celsius

The conversion formula isk = 1013 / atmp * ((273 + airt) / 293)^0.5 k = the DIN factor

atmp = atmospheric pressure in mbar

airt = air temperature in °Celsius

EWG is the new European norm

Correction of the measured power and torque in the norm with an atmospheric pressure of 1013 mbar but at 25° Celsius

The conversion formula isk = 1013 / atmp * ((273 + airt) / 298)^0.5 k = the EWG factor

atmp = atmospheric pressure in mbar

airt = air temperature in °Celsius

Other important conversions to know are :

1kgm = 9,81 Nm

1 kgm = 7,23 Lbft

1 km = 0,6214 miles

1 gallon (American) = 3,78533 litre

1 gallon (English) = 4,54596 litre

This norms like DIN and EWG are very important to allow us to compare two measurements independent of the air temperature of air pressure of the day. We can see trough the formula that higher air pressure and a higher air temperature will give us a bigger k factor and a lower air pressure and lower air temperature a smaller one. Important for you, is to know what this means in the practice.

The best way I can explain you this, is that an engine with more horsepower will give you better time from 0-100 km/h and an engine with more torque will give you better time from 80-120km/h in the same gear. To go from 0-100 km/h you need to go high in the revs to come at least at the rpm of maximum hp's. For the 80-120km/h test in the same gear, you can't make a choice of rpm, so the power (torque) at the RPM range between 80 and 120 km/h will give you the ability to accelerate from one speed to another speed.

So it is possible that an engine with the same hp's or even less but with more torque can let you down, if the car has to accelerate in the same gear. For example a VW TDI can accelerate better from lower RPM than a VW GTI.

And what to think about the promised power and torque ?

First you have to see the unit of the promised gain. Is the increased power in kW , hp, bph, SAE, DIN or EWG (see above), before you can compare. The Torque maybe in Nm (also DIN or EWG) ,in kgm or in Lbft.

* Some tuners give directly the maximum achieved power and torque at a certain Rpm

* Some tuners give only the gain of power and torque, this can be done in different ways :

* Or the tuner gives the difference at the maximum power- and torque points on a certain RPM

* Or the tuner gives you the maximum difference independent of the RPM

So for example, it is possible that a tuning give maybe an extra 10 hp at the point of maximum power, but gives you maybe 15 extra hp in the midrange of rpm. So for the same conversion, one tuner speaks about +10hp and another of +15hp. This is a very important point to know before we choose one or another tuner.

Which type of dyno can I trust ?

First off all, the dyno must be calibrated, to give correct measurements.

A real engine dyno is a normally a correct tool, but You can not take always the engine out to let measure Your power and torque.

A chassis dyno can also do the job, but very important now adays is that for the newer cars You let run it on a 4WD dyno where the 4 wheels turn always at the same speed even if you have a 2WD FWD or RWD car, like on our Superflow SF880E.The reason is that speed is now also a very important entry for the ECU. If the ECU misses the speed signal it goes often in another part of the program than normal and power measurement is not correct.

Even when traction control is disabled and all the fuses are taken out from ABS etc.. , some cars still go in another part of the program and don't give full power. The only way to maybe measure correct on a 2WD dyno or a not 4 wheel driven 4WD dyno, is to go first to the official dealer and let put the dyno mode on the car. If this is not done, the power measurement on this type of dyno's is not correct.

Another point is also that chassis dyno's measure wheel power. Only sophisitcated dyno's have a program to measure correctly transmission losses. If this is done correctly, than wheel power + transmission losses = engine power.

Some tuners add a fix percent to the wheel power to know the engine power. This is not correct, because it differs from car to car. The only way to know the real transmission losses is to measure them in the same gear as the wheel power measurement.

Comparing wheel power from one dyno to another is not possible for the follwing reasons : the transmission losses are influenced by the tyre pressure and how the car is tighten on the dyno. Lower tyre pressure give more losses, a harder tighten car give also more losses. So the only way is to measure exactly the transmission losses each time You want to measure the wheel power again.

What is the air/fuel ratio and lambda ?

For petrol engines the air/fuel ratio is very important. It is the quantity of air aspirated by the engine against the quantity of fuel aspirated (carburettor) or injected (injection).

Lambda is a unit less number that gives you an indication of the air/fuel ratio. A lambda sensor measure the quantity of oxygen in the exhaust. A complete combustion didn't left oxygen at all. In that way the sensor can tell to us or to the engine management system that the engine runs rich or poor an let allow the ECU to make corrections if necessary.

The normal lambda sensor has a hysteretic characteristic between 0,9 and 1,1. Now we have also wideband lambda sensors which have a linear characteristic between lambda 0,7 to 1,2. This is the ideal sensor for tuning.

* The ideal air/fuel ratio for minimum consumption is nearly 15,4 kg of air against 1 kg of fuel (lambda 1,05)

* The ideal air/fuel ratio for maximum power is 13,2 kg of air against 1kg of fuel (lambda 0,9)

* The car manufactures admitted the norm of lambda 1 as 14,7 kg air against 1 kg of fuel. This is between minimum economy and maximum power

So if we search maximum power we have to see that the lambda is 0,9 at that point for an atmospheric engine. A turbo- or a supercharged engine has to run richer (at lambda 0,82) only for safety reasons, because the higher pressure and the higher exhaust temperature can destroy the engine. By making the mixture richer we cool the temperature in the combustion room and the exhaust to protect the engine.

Will I have a bigger consumption after the tuning ?

you see that theoretical if we give more fuel (petrol or diesel), we consume more. In the practice you will see that if the tuning job is done good, the average consumption will go down because :

* We have a better combustion if the ignition curves are optimized

* Because we have more power and torque, we don't need to push the accelerator as deep as before

* Some cars are even too rich for maximum power at certain points

For the best economy you can use the commercial fuel with the highest octane. So it is better to use 98 octane than 95 octane, even when the car manufacture allows you to drive 95 octane. The economy you can make with the price difference, you will certainly loose in consumption and that with less power output. In most cases of tuning only 98 octane is allowed because the engine is tuned for that octane to obtain maximum power.

* A much higher fuel consumption than original, means that you didn't use the right fuel for the modified program, or that the tuned program is not a good one, but one which has to much pré-ignition or and to much fuel.

Why did I have to use another air filter than the original ?

The advantages of a good sport air filter are :

* you don't need to change the filter but only clean it with the right product and oil it in

* It filters minimum as much as the original but has a better airflow

* The better airflow gives you more power and torque

* It works wonderful in combination with other tuning parts where you need more air

* How more revs the engine make, how more power gain we have, so for a diesel that didn't rev high the gain is not so important, but the other advantages are primordial.

* you have replacement air filters and what we call direct filters. Normally direct filters can give you more power, but only when the aspirated air is cool. So we have to secure that the hot air coming from the fan, radiator or engine is isolated from the filter.

Which cam is a good one for my engine ?

The most important thing is quality. Buy never a camshaft that is re-profiled from an original one. The manufacture of that type of camshaft has to reduce the valve lift (less power) and have to choose more degrees. The result is bad idling, bad power in low revs and maybe a little gain in high revs. The car is certainly not pleasant to drive and most of the time that type of camshafts shows very quick wearing.

The only good type of road tuning camshaft is the one with bigger valve lift and only a little bit more degrees. This results in a good idling and good performance on the whole rpm range. Never allow to loose important power at a certain rpm. The only way to produce such a cam is beginning from blank cams coming from the original car manufacture that has to be completely profiled. This is the way we proceed.

Be certain that the camshafts you put, matches the right valve springs, valve retainers, tappets and allow enough freedom between the valves and pistons.

Camshafts for hydraulic tappets has not the same profile as the one for mechanical tappets. Hydraulic tappets didn't need to be adjusted, but didn't allow very high revs.

If you have mechanical tappets the valve clearance has to be right and regularly controlled.

Some new cars has variable timing or and lift systems for the camshafts. This can be variable at a certain rpm and load or even continuous variable. In the next future some car manufactures like BMW are busy to work with a 42 volt battery system that allows the directly computer controlled valve lift and valve timing. This is the ideal solution, because for the moment with the mechanical parts, we always have to make a compromise.

How do they modify a cylinder head for more power ?

Like told before the basic rule is to give the engine better breathing. Some original cylinder heads can be very restrictive.

We have to look at a flow bench, how to ameliorate the airflow in the cylinder head.

We have to port the cylinder head , modify the valve seats and match the inlet- and exhaust manifold to the head.

A good modification of the valve seats, can sometimes give more gain than bigger valves on a normal valve seat.

It is important before you will allow somebody to do that, that the chosen person has a lot of experience in modifying cylinder heads. It is not the first one that have worked a lot for nothing, if he has not the knowledge it's not the first one who destroy the head by grinding to much and passing through.

And what about my exhaust system ?

With the sport exhaust we can have a power gain if the original one is restrictive. It asks a lot of experience and testing to find the right exhaust for a specific car. A less restrictive exhaust will automatically sound louder and maybe for this reason not always be legal.

A special exhaust manifold can give less temperature at the cylinder head together with a better flow and so power gain. If the exhaust is too free we loose backpressure and so also torque but we can gain some peak power, so here we have also to choose the best compromise.

Very important for all turbo engines (petrol and diesel) is that a very free and less restrictive exhaust will give you less backpressure and this results in less amount of turbo pressure and a loss of torque. So here we have also to choose the best compromise and examine very well the original exhaust where it is to restrictive.

Can I let my cat away ?

First of all this is not legal.

Older cars can give a good power gain if we take the cat away, but we always have to let the lambda sensor connected to allow the ECU to work well. It is possible that the power gain is 7 à 10 hp on such an old car

Newer cars are designed to work with a cat. The cat is designed as a part of the exhaust system. The gain by take this cat away is maybe only 2 hp with a lot of torque loss because the backpressure is too low. So don't !!.

If you wants to improve the gain the best is to replace the original ceramic cat by a metallic race cat. The only inconvenient is the price.

What is chip tuning ?

Some thirty or fourty years ago, if we wanted more power we had to tune an engine by choosing another calibration of our carburettor , and we had to choose the best ignition curve with our distributor to find the best power on the dyno.

With chip tuning we do the same. But because the engine is now completely managed by an electronic unit (ECU), we have to modify the program by alternating fuel- and ignition curves to find maximum power. The program is stored in an EPROM called chip. Therefore we call it chip tuning;

How can we gain power and torque with chip tuning and how much?

By modifying the ignition- and fuel curves in a good way, we can gain power and torque.

We can only gain significant power with ignition modifications if we use the best available fuel. So driving with 95 octane can't give us a significant gain.

We choose the minimum fuel amount to come to lambda 0,9 (atmospheric) or 0,82 (turbo) to find maximum power.

We can eliminate flat spots in the power curves.

Very important is that every mechanical modification on an engine (like camshafts) give only power gain if the program is matched to that modification. We have to tell the ECU what he has to do by reprogramming the unit.

For atmospheric engines the gain is between 5 and 10%. For turbo engines this can go to 30%, because we can manage also the turbo strategy.* The best way to tune turbo engines is to try to go no higher in turbo pressure than the maximum original pressure, but to go as quick as possible to that point and hold this pressure as long as possible by the way of the program.

Why has this not be done by the car manufacture ?

The car manufacture has to make a program choice with different points in view :

First he has the anti-pollution laws for the different countries. The most easiest way for high production is to give the same severe program for all the cars independent which country they will be delivered.

Most of the time the programs are more severe than the law describes, so the manufacture has no problems in the near future.

Because he can't program every engine, he has to choose a save program for all his engines where the mechanical tolerances differs from one to another.

FOR THIS REASON IF WE WANT TO MAKE POWER GAIN WITH CHIP TUNING WE HAVE TO DO EVERY CAR INDIVIDUAL TO FIND THE LIMITS OF THE TOLERANCES OF THAT CAR. IT IS NORMAL THAT ONE CAR HAS NOT THE SAME TOLERANCE AS ANOTHER ONE AND THEREFORE NEEDS ANOTHER PROGRAM.

ALL THE TUNERS OR COMPANIES WHO TRIES TO SELL THE SAME PROGRAM TO ALL THE CARS OF THE SAME TYPE ARE ONLY INTERESTED IN THE COMMERCIAL SIDE OF THE BUSINESS WITH ALL THE POSSIBLE TECHNICAL DANGERS THAT THIS CAN GIVE.

A BAD PROGRAM CAN DESTROY your ENGINE.

Which are the dangers of bad chip tuning ?

Imported programs from other countries can be dangerous if for example the fuel quality is better in that country, than in the one we are driving the car. The program has to be made special for the used fuel quality.

For petrol engines :

To much pré-ignition gives a higher fuel consumption and can even destroy your engine by detonation.

Bad air/fuel ratio's :

To rich mixtures can give you a big fuel consumption and even cylinder washing which take away the oil film and destroy the engine.

To poor mixtures gives to high combustion temperatures, favourites detonation and can also destroy your engine.

For diesel engines :

To rich can give you a big fuel consumption and even cylinder washing which take away the oil film and destroy the engine.

It will destroy your cat and your ré-combustion system.

For all turbo- or supercharger engines :

To high turbo pressures may also destroy your engine in all possible ways, cylinderhead gasket, pistons etc...

For turbo diesels, the most gain is achieved by enriching in a good way the injection, which gives you automatically a turbo pressure amount of nearly 0,1 bar, which is save with the fuel amount. It is not necessary to program higher boost pressures. Maybe only the turbo strategy to achieve quicker the maximum original boost. you need very much higher turbo pressures to obtain a power gain, which is not reasonable.

Please take in mind that a diesel engine has to do a lot of kilometres.

THE KEMPOWER PASSWORD IS RELIABILITY AND OUR CONVERSIONS ALLOWS you TO MAKE MINIMUM THE SAME MILEAGE AS ORIGINAL. WE DIDN'T SELL OTHER ROAD CONVERSIONS. ALL OUR KITS ARE HOMEMADE AND LONG TESTED. THIS IS THE REASON WHY WE ARE NOT ALWAYS THE FIRST ONE TO SELL A KIT FOR A BRAND NEW CAR. TWO DYNO'S A ROLLING ROAD, A BIG ENGINE DYNO AND A LOT OF INSTRUMENTS ALLOW US TO DEVELOP GOOD AND SAVE ENGINE KITS.

Is chip tuning better than a additional black box or not ?

The two are good if they are well made.

Above you can read the difference between a good and a bad chip tuning.

This is the same for the so called black box, which is an additional box, that modifies the data in an external way. Everything depends on the way this additional box works, and which data it takes as input data and in which way it delivers output signals.

Some black boxes receive not enough input data to work well, and delivers therefore not the right output signals. For example some diesel boxes are directly placed between the wire loom and the diesel pump. So these boxes only receives an 12V alimentation and increase the fuel injection in a constant way. If the engine is idling or on full power the amount of fuel is the same. you didn't have to be a technician to understand that if the quantity of extra injected fuel is chosen for maximum power, this same amount is to high at part throttle or low revs. So here the maximum power can be achieved like with other systems, but you have flat spots and hesitations on part throttle and low revs and a lot of black smoke.

If the same black box is made in the way, that it can modify the extra injected fuel (output) in function of the throttle position and the turbo pressure (input signals), and if it is well programmed, it can be as good as chip tuning.

This is the way our diesel black boxes works. you can understand that the technical way to achieve this possibilities is more sophisticated and therefore more expensive than the first systems. The advantage of this system is that the customer can leave his ECU original, which the dealer or also the main distributor prefers.

We make black boxes and chip tuning.

On some petrol engines, it is not possible to re-chip the original ECU. In some ECU's the program is stored directly in the microprocessor, and modifying the ECU to allow to reprogram the unit would be to expensive. For this cars we have also a universal additional box that can alternate the ignition- and the fuel characteristics. The program in that extra unit works like a normal ECU, with different fuel- and ignition maps. A positive number in the map will increase the original curve at that point and a negative number will decrease it. So we can always program that engine in the best possible way. We have full throttle ignition- and fuel maps, part load ignition- and fuel maps, and also an idling map. Even this works as good as classic chip tuning.

We must not forget that there will come a time that for one reason or another, it will be impossible to re-chip the original ECU. Therefore we use already this system on some cars.

Can I put a turbo or a compressor on my car ?

you can't put a turbo or compressor on an atmospheric engine without the necessary a save modifications :

For detonation reasons, the compression ratio can't be left the same, but must be decreased

The pistons has to be cooled with an oil cooling spray

The piston clearance has to be bigger and the pistons has to be preferably forged and have a turbo design.

The cylinderhead gasket must resist on the pressure , if not it has to be replaced by a stronger one

Also there may be a need for stronger cylinder head bolts

Does your conrods, crankshaft and bearings support the higher pressure on the pistons ?

Because of the modification in the lubrification system (piston oil spray, lubrification of the charger) the delivery capacity an oil pressure has to be revised.

The electronics has to be modificated in a serious way to match in security this modifications. Most stock ECU's have no input like boost pressure, so they will not be able to correct the fuel and ignition in a save way against the boost.

If not all this modifications has be done, there is no possibility to put a pressure higher than 0.2 à 0.3 bar, which gives you certainly no much power gain than a good atmospheric conversion, which is much saver.

We are able to do this conversions, but we have to convert the engine completely as we want to give reliability as stock and will there fore be more expensive than some other tuners who didn't open the engine at all. This is a technical suicide.

And what about the airbox ?

An airbox will give you certainly a better breathing by accumulate extra air if we reopen the throttle. So we will certainly have a considerable power- and torque gain. Unfortionally not every ECU can manage this modification, because we have to let the airflow-/air-mass-sensor away to obtain a gain. Most of the ECU's use this sensors for their basic calculations. If we want absolutely to use such an original ECU, we need to use an extra electronic box which is called Alpha-n box. This box converts the throttle position signals in an a way the ECU admit as being an air mass signal or we have to use another and good ECU to make this conversion. In any case this engine has to be mapped on an engine dyno. For road applications we have to take the emission rules in mind. Some tuners do this conversion without using one of this two methods. In this case the ECU will run in security, and can't allow good power results.

Can I have a power gain by other sparkplugs ?

Yes there are sparkplugs that gives more power than other ones. Racing plugs will give you some 5hp more, but this plugs have cold start problems.

Some special sparkplugs gives a better combustion, but you may never put this plugs, if there is already a chip tuning on your car, because this can create detonation, if the program has been made on maximum. If you want to put this sparkplugs, you have to let re-chip your car to this specific plugs.

Power loss and smoke on my tuned diesel?

My car was first of all OK after the tuning but now it has less power and more smoke. What can that be ? Has the software changed ?

No the software didn't changed, but You can have different problems that can be the cause :

Is Your air filter really clean. Some dealers wait more than 50.000 km to change it.

control or let control Your combustion recirculation system ! This electronic controlled valve connects the exhaust with the intake in certain conditions for better emissions, but it can stay open the whole time. So take the electronic connector off from the electrical valve and take the vacuum hose off the mechanical valve and put a stop in the vacuum hose. Otherwise put a plate between the exhaust pipe that connect the exhaust gas with the intake manifold. If these valve stays open, You have a lot of black smoke and also power loss. This is a frequent cause.

Another frequent cause is a faulty air mass meter. The problem is that it didn't give a fault on normal diagnostic systems, because this systems can only control the wires and if the sensor signal changes, but it can change and give a wrong signal to the ECU. Most of the time when this is the fault, the power is OK until 2.500 to 2.700 RPM, but thereafter there is a dip in the power curve and the car didn't have his tuned power anymore. A dyno test can give You the answer.

Pay attention this different causes are not especially for tuned cars, but are also for complete original cars. The only problem is that some dealers say directly that the power loss is caused by the tuning and didn't want to help You further

And what about my diesel particle filter DPF / FAP ?

The diesel particle filter is called DPF (diesel particle filter) or on french FAP (filtre à particule).

This DPF eleminates diesel particles by filter them before going out of the exhaust. You can understand if there is no diesel smoke at all coming out of the exhaust, that at a certain time the filter will be full, blocking exhaust gasses with powerlosses. To clean the filter there is a called regeneration system. We speek about :

naturally regeneration :

this is done by the car self at certain conditions

this condition are 650°C of exhaust gas and constant speed during +/- 20km

forced regeneration :

this is done at the dealer sending a special program from diagnostic unit to do the regeneration

the diagnostic system controls how much % that the DPF is cleaned during the proces.

if the system sees that the % will be stay to high it will advise to replace the filter

Now as You can see the problem for naturally regeneration is the 650*C of exhaust gas. Like with the current traffic and restrictions, we may only drive 30/50/70/90/120 km/h or whatever and like mostly we will drive at low rpm in a higher gear, we will rarely reach the 650°C.

Therefore we advice :

to drive a traject of minimum 20 km , let us say every 2 weeks in a lower gear reving above 3000 rpm and at a constant speed. This should start the regeneration.

to choose always a good quality of diesel, which will give already less particles on the start.

to use regulary a good cleaning product ike "FORTE diesel conditioner ", that helps to reach the 650*C necessary for regeneration

Stopping the engine during the regeneration process can be worse. On some cars there is control lamp, to show You if the regeneration is busy or not, buy on most cars You don't have that.

Newer versions have or will have an additional product that helps to start the chemical regeneration sooner at 250*C, but for the moment most didn't have it.

The question is also will tuning affect the life time of my DPF? Well if the tuning is well done in function for a version with DPF, it will not or nearly not affect. Let us say if it is a good tuning program it may short the life time only by maximum 10%.

Why is it dangerous to buy parts on the web ?

Internet is a fantastic communication system. Like all systems they have dangers. In the case of tuning it is also like this.

Some potential customers do web shopping and everything seems very good. They assemble tuning parts from different companies, where the pictures are beautyfull and the promisses high. The problem is that first of all, this items must match together on a car and somebody has to fit it and tune this all together. You can not go with Your steak to the restaurant.

So think very carefull before You buy. The best is to buy and let fit it, by the same company or a official dealer of the same company. We do not install parts that we didn't sell and we can not give any warranty on it. If there are troubles the customer is always the looser, because the company who sold the parts will say that it is the fault of the guy who fit it and the one who fit it, will tell You that the company has sold wrong or bad parts.

Will KEMPOWER solve my problems ?

We tune only engines that are delivered to us in stock trim.

If there are some foreign tuning parts on it, we didn't tune it, we cann't give guarantee at all and because this are not, the by us choosen selected and tested parts, there is also no guarantee on succes.

On this way, we avoid possible discussions and disapointments.

Kempower is a complete tuner. This means for the mechanics and the electronics.

Some want or can only do the mechanical modifications and hope that Kempower will solve their problems by doing the electronics and adjust the mechanics, or some have let tune their car by another tuner, without succes and hope that we will solve their problems.

This is NOT the way we work. We do everything from scratch or nothing !!!

What when my dealer reflashed my ECU with an update to original again ?

It can happen that Your official workshop dealer has to reflash Your tuned ECU with an update, or even that they have done it accidently. The car will be back to original.

No problem, the customer comes back and if his tuning has been done within the last 3 months we retune his car starting from the latest original program for free. If the tuning is older than 3 months we ask 75,00 Euro to do it.

So he can enjoy again his tuned car with the latest factory update.

Håper dette oppklarer litt siden det er generelle regler som gjeller all tuning.

[Odd-M]

Åpent luftfilter i motorrom gir deg mindre effekt. Effekt-tennplugger er bare lurium. Bakpotta gir bare mer lyd.

[Danny89]

Har merket god effektforskjell på min med sports eksos, kvasskam og kon filter..

men det er ingen betydlig kjapp bil forde om jeg har byttet dette.. hjalp bare litt på bunndrag.

Det jeg blei fornøyd med er lyden.. nå er den helt rå

[Olelink]

Mener at KN hadde et vått filter som passet i orginal luftfilter boks.

Men jeg ble frarådet å bruke dette pga luftmassemåleren kunne bli skada, denne er/var dyr (ca 4000kr) så jeg kjører oginalt BMW filter.

Men manger her bruker vell KN filter uten problemer i det hele tatt.

Koster jo ikke mer enn rundt 4-5000 for K&N Konfilter ("vått") komplett med varmeskjold, så at bare ett "vått" innsatsfilter kostet så mye som 4000 tror jeg ikke.

Nå det gjeller chipen som det var linket til var den til IS motoren som er en 16 ventil motor med litt arv fra E30 M3 motoren, så den har et bedre potensiale en E46 316-318i som er 8 ventilers motorer som mister mye av futten ved 4500 omdreininger.

Men husk også at en IS motor er trimmet mer så den burde det vel heller være vanskeligere å få noe mer uta av med bare en chip enn en vanlig 318.

[JulianS]

Hvis du merker noe effektøkning ved å bytte filter, plugger og bakpotte så er det isåfall kun psykisk, at du tror det går bedre... Går bedre hvis du polerer bilen og driter før du kjører!

[babjorn]

hehe bra svart JulianS

Er nok bare i hode på folk dette hjelper,men da fungerer det da

Du får nok 7hk for luft filter,13-26hk for ny bakpotte å 8hk for noen uber plugger,så kjør på

Monterer du Xenon så vil alle du møter tro du kjører sykt fort for dem kan ikke se en dritt

[Eklund]

Hvis du merker noe effektøkning ved å bytte filter, plugger og bakpotte så er det isåfall kun psykisk, at du tror det går bedre... Går bedre hvis du polerer bilen og driter før du kjører!

Det er en påstand. Jeg vet flere som har økt toppfart på denne måten og dessuten fått bedre drivstofføkonomi. Har du noen belegg for at dette ikke virker på 318, så frem med det. Jeg tviler heller ikke på at det er mest psykisk, pga forventning og lyd, men mange mener at det er en faktisk forskjell, selv om den ikke er så stor. Mange motorer har også en flaskehals pga hesteavgift. 318 har en slik motor, den selges kun i markeder med ekstremt avgiftsregime eller i u-land. Hadde vært interessant om noen har erfaring fra dyno etter et slikt opplegg. De "lurepluggene" hadde også vært rimelig moro å teste i dyno, særlig pulstar. Her er det noen som hevder at de gir 5% ekstra effekt i BMWs 6er etter at noen som heter TEF har testet i benk: http://www.motorsport.no/wip4/gnistrend ... ?id=262087

[Radeon]

Rib bilen for alt anna enn førersetet. Der har du de 10hk extra

[erdal]

Rib bilen for alt anna enn førersetet. Der har du de 10hk extra

Man får ikke ekstra hk for å gjøre bilen lettere, man gjør d bare lettere for motoren å jobbe

[E36Cab1]

Litt OT ettersom trådstarters bil ikkje er en diesel:

Power loss and smoke on my tuned diesel?

My car was first of all OK after the tuning but now it has less power and more smoke. What can that be ? Has the software changed ?

No the software didn't changed, but You can have different problems that can be the cause :

Is Your air filter really clean. Some dealers wait more than 50.000 km to change it.

control or let control Your combustion recirculation system ! This electronic controlled valve connects the exhaust with the intake in certain conditions for better emissions, but it can stay open the whole time. So take the electronic connector off from the electrical valve and take the vacuum hose off the mechanical valve and put a stop in the vacuum hose. Otherwise put a plate between the exhaust pipe that connect the exhaust gas with the intake manifold. If these valve stays open, You have a lot of black smoke and also power loss. This is a frequent cause.

Dette er kun mulig på eldre biler uten EOBD...så en smule foreldet..

[Radeon]

Rib bilen for alt anna enn førersetet. Der har du de 10hk extra

Man får ikke ekstra hk for å gjøre bilen lettere, man gjør d bare lettere for motoren å jobbe

Ja godt du fikk retta på meg der, kunne jo være noen trodde at de faktisk FIKK mer hk av det...

[spaix]

seriøst? Går den så mye bedre med 99 oktan??

Her var det ikke snakk om at bilen skulle gå så mye bedre, men hvordan han kunne få 10-15hk for lite penger.

Merker ikke så mye forskjell på vanlig landeveis kjøring.

men hvis du kommer opp i fart, eks motorvei spes i danske hastigheter så er det bedre drag med 98 - 99 oktan. Det merka jeg godt for et par år siden etter en tur til Fyn hvor jeg måtte fylle 95oktan før jeg kjørte hjem, fik da redusert futt ved forbikjøringer.

Dette ble bedre i fjord da shell fikk 99 oktan til bake i danmark etter den hadde vært borte i flere år.

I instruksjons boka står det spesielt bemerket at 316i og 318i får økt ytelse og redusert drivstoff forbruk ved bruk av 98-99 oktan bensin

Motor efekten på 316i og 318i (8 ventil utgaven) er oppgit med 95 oktan bensin. Derfor økt ytelse ved 98 - 99 oktan

For 6 sylindrede motorer er efekten oppgitt ved bruk av 98 oktan bensin, så ha du en nyere BMW og bruker 95 oktan bensin har du ikke den effekten som fabrikken oppgir.

har dette samme effekt økning på 2,0? eller er det bare 1,8 som har den økningen?