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BMW E87 - Feilsøke død klima


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Jeg vil skrive på engelsk nedenfor pga. min dårlig norsk. Høpper det er greit med dere

So last summer bought my first car (BMW e87 116i, pretty basic equipment) here, presented as fail free which turn out to be major p.i.t.a.

At a time i didn't bothered with air-con (this is just one thing that is bad with car) it was hot and blower worked, so i suggested that everything was ok.  And usually i like to drive with window little open than with air-con. 

Problem started when started to getting colder and colder, hot air would blow only from windshield defrost. Could not change direction of air blowing nor trigger seat heating.

So i bought cable and downloaded reinghold ista  to start troubleshooting. 

Got few error: 

  • 009C48   -    IHKR: Mixing-flap motor
  • 009C4A   -    IHKR: Fresh-air/recirculated-air-flap motor
  • 009C4D   -    IHKR: Air-distribution-flap motor
  • 00A6CF   -   JBE: AUC sensor
  • 00A6D1   -   JBE: Auxiliary-water pump

Things that i done:

  • First tried to delete errors, with no success. Error just pop back,
  • Control panel responded to ISTA functions (turn all lights, can read potentiometer angle, ...), checked that out
  • flaps stuck at 255%
  • Checked all fuses, all good,
  • Battery was around 12.4V, so i checked that out
  • According to newtis.info documentation flap motors are connected in line so if first motor fail rest wont work. So i put 2nd and 3rd in place of first flap motor. No good
  • Checked all cables for open circuit or high resistance, all looks good
  • Bought new fsu, no changes,
  • Bought used klima control panel, no changes

I have run out of ideas what to look. All i suspect is that i bought broken panel or it ghost possesed

Anyone with ideas what to look, or someone lives near Kristiansand that don't mind trying klima panel from his car just for check 




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Since the climate only worked on defrost mode, I immediately suspect battery. Because that's default behaviour for climate, when the battery is bad. Or has low voltage.

How was the battery checked?

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Hei, takk for svar

First i have put battery on charger over night, and measuring it from time to time while in car. Voltage has been steady since charging (12.4V). Also registered battery with NCS Expert

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That might be too low. 12,4V is too low when the battery is fully charged. It should be 12,6V or so. The battery could be defect even if the voltage is high. You could do a battery test or try to let the car rest overnight, then measure the voltage.

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Hei igjen, so during weekend i have took battery out of car and put to charger, when done charging battery voltage was 13.6V, after some time (few hours or so) voltage dropped to 13.1V, after almost 24h voltage dropped to 12.8V. Hooked battery to a car since i had to drive kid to kindergarden and voltage dropped to 12.7. After got back disconnected battery and will check later on what does it say. Does this means that battery is dead/not good or just setting to stable voltage?

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Don`t worry yet. After the battery has been charged, the battery voltage will be high, but that`s not correct. It`s false voltage, sort of. When the battery has "calmed down" or after it`s been used, it`ll stabilize.

Seems that your battery is goog though.

I see now that the error 9C4D is probably your fault. Did you check the power to it? And wiring?

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It`s possible with defective climate control panel, or defective flap motors. Alle the flap motors are LIN bus controlled. And as you said, they are indeed connected in series with both power and LIN bus.

I suspect the flap motors are defective, or the climate control panel are defective.

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Really getting sick of this car. I was bildemontering place, tried their control panel, removed errors beforehand - no avail. Tried their flap motors, even tried readressing them - no good. 

Forgot to mention, seat heating doesn't work i can press buttons but no light comes on

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Then it seems to be a broken wire somewhere. There seems to be missing LIN bus from the climate panel and everything else. You can measure the ohm on the wire. Point A to B.

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Not that either, checked for open circuit and high resistance. Looks ok. In meantime, radiatorvifte stoped working, and abs ring seems broken. Well, maybe its best to sell it to scrapyard

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Seems like that almost all modules have been changed in past, is it possible that this make all problems with klima and what not? 

Tryed to update some modules but all of ZB numbers that inpa spit is nowhere to be found in winkfp. Uploaded img with inpa info

Did found some modules families, but not sure if its correct

Did imported all (PABD, P-SGBD, Assembly line data, and copied files from sp-daten v.67.1 to gdata

My vin last 7 digits: PT76545


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